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post #17491 of 17501 Old 11-07-2018, 05:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MeatChicken View Post
It looks like the leads section of that balun "unscrews" .. perhaps with some sort of internal quick-release connector for quick replacement ( .. 50 years later when needed ) ....
Yes, that is exactly what it is. It's also yet another connection that might give you trouble; not as reliable as a soldered connection. I'm thinking of the fork connections in the CB-8269 balun housing for the Winegard antennas. But, a replacement connector with wires is probably less expensive than a new balun.





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Last edited by rabbit73; 11-07-2018 at 08:41 PM.
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post #17492 of 17501 Old 11-28-2018, 07:09 AM
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Hello!

OK, so I can't believe you guys are all still here, but I am happy that you are! I have an issue and I am hoping you can help.

If any of you remember me, I set up my antennas nearly a decade ago and have had no issues. I run a pair of Funke VHF antennas to pick up channel 11 out of Green Bay, WI and also channels 7 and 9 out of Wausau, WI. I use a channel 11 Jointenna to combine them.

I also have a XG91 for the Green Bay UHF stations combined with a small 16-19 specialty antenna and a full range Winegard. The Winegard is attic mounted and utilizes a channel 31 Jointenna that was used for the old Fox station in Wittenberg, WI and the specialty antenna is mast mounted and was used with a channel 16 jointenna to pick up NBC in Rhinelander, WI.


Everything worked flawlessly as the pair of VHF antennas were combined and inputted to the VHF side of the old CM7777. The XG91 and the specialty antenna are combined with the channel 16 jointenna and inputted to the UHF side of the 7777. Once in the house the coax is joined with the channel 31 Jointenna to the attic mounted and preamplified antenna. Everything is distributed via an equal leg 3 way splitter. I have Tivo OTAs for each TV that gives me a full EPG, dvr controls and streaming apps to each location.


Now comes the newest repack. Channel 11 is moving to channel 12. Part of me thinks that I should look into having my Jointenna retuned. Is this easy? Can one of you accomplish this? Do I need to do it? Part two...My channel 31 Jointenna has been doing a great job with channel 33 since channel 31 went dark. Perhaps it was mistuned to start with, or perhaps the filter is just that wide. I don't know. Perhaps they could both be fine tuned?


I no longer use the channel 16 Jointenna or antenna, but it is still in the signal stream. With the repack, Channel 46 (ION) out of Wittenberg/ Wausau has moved to channel 19 and I periodically receive it. I am considering using the specialty antenna and a Jointenna to get this channel better. I could either get the channel 16 Jointenna retuned or I could purchase one of the remaining channel 19 jointennas from Warren.


Are any of you capable of retuning these, or is there a plcae I could send them to have them retuned?


Thanks!


Bill


By the way, it is good to see that you all are well.
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post #17493 of 17501 Old 11-28-2018, 11:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willscary View Post

I run a pair of Funke VHF antennas to pick up channel 11 out of Green Bay, WI and also channels 7 and 9 out of Wausau, WI. I use a channel 11 Jointenna to combine them.

Now comes the newest repack. Channel 11 is moving to channel 12. Part of me thinks that I should look into having my Jointenna retuned. Is this easy? Can one of you accomplish this? Do I need to do it? Part two...My channel 31 Jointenna has been doing a great job with channel 33 since channel 31 went dark. Perhaps it was mistuned to start with, or perhaps the filter is just that wide. I don't know. Perhaps they could both be fine tuned?

I no longer use the channel 16 Jointenna or antenna, but it is still in the signal stream. With the repack, Channel 46 (ION) out of Wittenberg/ Wausau has moved to channel 19 and I periodically receive it. I am considering using the specialty antenna and a Jointenna to get this channel better. I could either get the channel 16 Jointenna retuned or I could purchase one of the remaining channel 19 jointennas from Warren.

Are any of you capable of retuning these, or is there a plcae I could send them to have them retuned?
.
Your channel 16 Jointenna could be retuned, but Warren is selling them for $34 and so I doubt that anyone would retune it for much less than that. One reason that there is no retuning "industry", and in fact, one reason that no major American manufacturer or distributor even offers tunable stuff, is that the cost of dealing with the customer dissatisfaction factor when their system doesn't work as well as they'd like it to wipes out any profits they could make. I remember when Winegard jacked the price of their UT-2700 tunable notches up from about $20-something to about $70 before discontinuing them. They probably only cost a couple of dollar to make, and I think they were just dumping their inventory at a price that made it worth the customer complaints that those sales would generate.

A UHF jointenna typically passes the channel below and channel above at the low end of the UHF band, and is wider than that at the upper end, so I doubt that your channel 31 jointenna is mistuned, and it would be a waste of money paying someone to "retweak" it for you..

As for adjusting the channel 11 jointenna, most VHF jointennas I have seen did not have tuning adjustments, but I have seen a couple of older ones that had a couple of trimmers in them, but I didn't experiment with them to see what they did. It is possible that they were tunable narrow notches that could be peaked to mitigate the aural carrier of the lower adjacent channel and the visual carrier of the upper adjacent channel. The boxes and packages that my jointennas came in didn't have manufacturer dates stamped on them. I'd bet that any you buy from Warren or elsewhere are "New, old stick" and are 20 to 50 years old.

Last edited by AntAltMike; 11-28-2018 at 11:08 AM.
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post #17494 of 17501 Old 11-28-2018, 11:17 AM
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Thanks Mike! My single channel antenna is actually a Blonder Tongue model for channels 14-19, if I recall...a BT-10 model. I thought I could repurpose it from channel 16 to channel 19. Yes, I have thought about buying the channel 19 JT and I guess it is the way to go. The channel 31 JT is working for channel 33, so I guess if it ain't broke...

So the channel 11 JT won't work for channel 12 and I am SOL? I wonder what the interference will be like if I join the antennas using just a normal combiner. One points to 90 degrees magnetic and the other points to 327 degrees magnetic. The 90 degree station is 37 miles away over a tall-tree hill that is a few hundred yards away and the other points to stations that are about 70 miles away but at antenna height I can see over 10 miles in that direction.
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post #17495 of 17501 Old 11-28-2018, 11:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willscary View Post

So the channel 11 JT won't work for channel 12 and I am SOL? .

I'd expect the channel 11 jointennas to work OK on channel 12 with digital signals. With analog signals, its lack of "flatness across the channel" if used for channel 12 might degrade the video a little, but broadcast digital ATSC can "take a lickin' and keep on tickin' ", so it will probably work OK for you.
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post #17496 of 17501 Old 11-28-2018, 11:48 AM
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Thanks again Mike!
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post #17497 of 17501 Old 12-21-2018, 05:29 AM
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Power Pass and DC Block question

Two simple questions: I'm getting ready to install a splitter like this (http://www.bestbuy.com/site/rocketf...?skuId=6651202) -- power passing on both ports -- to split a signal from an antenna to two TVs. Because of physical location problems, I need to have the antenna preamp's power supply close to TV number one. I will insert a DC Block between the splitter and TV number two. So:

1. Do I have this right?

and

2. If I do, is it also true that a bunch of unsuspecting customers install that splitter from Best Buy in similar situations, don't put on the DC Block, and fry their equipment?

(Crude diagram below)

Antenna
|
|
Preamp
|
|
+--Splitter-->--DC Block-->--TV2
|
|
Preamp Power Supply
|
|
TV1
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post #17498 of 17501 Old 12-21-2018, 12:58 PM
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There is no need to use a DC block on that splitter, the power passing function is diode-steered so it automatically blocks power from getting to the "wrong" port.


The probability that any Best Buy customer "fried" anything due to this splitter is pretty low unless they happened to get one that was defective (or used it incorrectly).


One thing to note is that if you're using a USB-powered amp, you're going to knock about .6 to .7 of a volt off your supply voltage to the amp. Depending on the amps' power requirements, this may cause issues.

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Last edited by ADTech; 12-21-2018 at 01:06 PM.
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post #17499 of 17501 Old 12-21-2018, 06:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADTech View Post
There is no need to use a DC block on that splitter, the power passing function is diode-steered so it automatically blocks power from getting to the "wrong" port.


The probability that any Best Buy customer "fried" anything due to this splitter is pretty low unless they happened to get one that was defective (or used it incorrectly).


One thing to note is that if you're using a USB-powered amp, you're going to knock about .6 to .7 of a volt off your supply voltage to the amp. Depending on the amps' power requirements, this may cause issues.
There is no need to use a DC block on that splitter, the power passing function is diode-steered so it automatically blocks power from getting to the "wrong" port.

Ah, good to know. I did the setup today and it worked quite well. I think it was mainly because with the new splitter in position I was able to substitute a short RG6 run for what had been a longer RG59 run.

Everything worked so well that I'm reluctant to change anything . . . I assume that the DC Block won't weaken the signal on that leg?

And, for now the preamp is a classic CM 7777 with old-fashioned power supply, but I'll keep that USB point in mind when the CM 7777 needs replacement -- not soon, I hope.
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post #17500 of 17501 Old 12-22-2018, 06:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wildwillie6 View Post
Everything worked so well that I'm reluctant to change anything . . . I assume that the DC Block won't weaken the signal on that leg?
Even if you used the DC block for TV2, it wouldn't do any more harm than the DC block (C2 series capacitor that blocks DC and passes RF signals) that is built in the CM 0747 power supply/power inserter for TV1.



Quote:
And, for now the preamp is a classic CM 7777 with old-fashioned power supply, but I'll keep that USB point in mind when the CM 7777 needs replacement -- not soon, I hope.
The original CM 7777 is my favorite preamp.





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Last edited by rabbit73; 12-22-2018 at 06:52 PM.
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post #17501 of 17501 Old Today, 02:23 AM
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Disappointing to see Home Depot no longer carries Winegard LNA200 preamp. Only RCA inline amp. With most Radioshacks closed down, you would think they would keep a good antenna preamplifier. At least Lowe's still has the RCA preamp.
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