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post #31 of 195 Old 05-21-2018, 12:23 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Pradeep2 View Post
Pultzar is asking if the driver exhibits any operating/mechanical noise in free air.

I have two ep4000s i was using for sub duties and used a Matchbox HD to bump up the levels going from rca to xlr. Sounds like your receiver already has xlr output so you prob wont need to go that route.
Ahh I see, I will definitely check that out when I get my amp.

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Originally Posted by johnson636 View Post
So you received a prototype so to speak...Good for you All eyes will be on your build Do you have a woofer tester?
No, wish I did. There are other plans in the works that people will be happy about, but I will leave it at that.
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post #32 of 195 Old 05-21-2018, 01:28 PM - Thread Starter
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Can someone model this in the DIYSG Stonehenge?
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post #33 of 195 Old 05-21-2018, 01:57 PM
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Is the stonehendge available again? I haven't seen it on the site in a while.

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post #34 of 195 Old 05-21-2018, 02:08 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by dan.john303 View Post
Is the stonehendge available again? I haven't seen it on the site in a while.

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Says so, as a paint ready item.

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post #35 of 195 Old 05-21-2018, 02:19 PM
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Ah. I must have been thinking of the flat pack.

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post #36 of 195 Old 05-21-2018, 04:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Buddylee123 View Post
There are other plans in the works that people will be happy about, but I will leave it at that.
Nooooooooooooooo. Not the "I will leave it at that" line.....The suspense will kill us
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post #37 of 195 Old 05-21-2018, 05:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Buddylee123 View Post
Can someone model this in the DIYSG Stonehenge?
Red = Mini Marty (9cu/18hz)
Green = Stonehenge (5.4cu/18.5hz)
Blue = 4cu sealed
All at 1000w with no HP filters applied.
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post #38 of 195 Old 05-21-2018, 07:59 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by CrusherW9 View Post
Red = Mini Marty (9cu/18hz)

Green = Stonehenge (5.4cu/18.5hz)

Blue = 4cu sealed

All at 1000w with no HP filters applied.


Thank you. I have always had ported subs so I think I will try sealed this time.


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post #39 of 195 Old 05-21-2018, 08:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Buddylee123 View Post
This really susprises me about the Crown amp. I thought everyone seemed to like the crown amps for sub use. How does the EP400 do when just using the sub outs on a receiver?
The EP4000 just destroys the crown as a sub amp at all volume levels. Sub out to behringer input EP4000 bridged in mono is how I run mine.
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post #40 of 195 Old 05-21-2018, 08:05 PM
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Originally Posted by tential View Post
I find it odd people don't like using the crowns for speakers. I like my crown for speakers and it's all I've used it for. I use the inuke for my sub and surrounds.

Now I use my inuke for subs, and fronts. Crown is used in my bedroom for 2 channel listening. I probably will try it for sub duty though for a smaller sub sometime for the bedroom.
I think the crown is good for speakers. Just not good for subwoofers. This is my opinion when comparing it to other sub amps. It's not like the crown wont work as a sub amp. it seems to be ok. But when you say hook up the EP4000 to the same sub set, the subs just come alive and there's no going back.

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post #41 of 195 Old 05-21-2018, 10:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CrusherW9 View Post
Red = Mini Marty (9cu/18hz)
Green = Stonehenge (5.4cu/18.5hz)
Blue = 4cu sealed
All at 1000w with no HP filters applied.
What’s port velocity for the Stonehenge?

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post #42 of 195 Old 05-22-2018, 06:20 AM - Thread Starter
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What signal should I use when doing the free air test?


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post #43 of 195 Old 05-22-2018, 07:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Buddylee123 View Post
Thank you. I have always had ported subs so I think I will try sealed this time.


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Why just "Try" it.
You can see the response. If it's not what you need, don't get it.
The Stonehenge adds quite a few DBs of sealed, with only a loss at the ultra low end. There's a reason most people like ported here! If you were going to build 4-8 of them for ULF, I'd understand that, you really need a lot of sealed subs it looks like to get the benefit of going sealed.
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post #44 of 195 Old 05-22-2018, 08:29 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by tential View Post
Why just "Try" it.
You can see the response. If it's not what you need, don't get it.
The Stonehenge adds quite a few DBs of sealed, with only a loss at the ultra low end. There's a reason most people like ported here! If you were going to build 4-8 of them for ULF, I'd understand that, you really need a lot of sealed subs it looks like to get the benefit of going sealed.
I hear you. Do you have any box builds on here that you would recommend if the Stonehenge is not an option?
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post #45 of 195 Old 05-22-2018, 08:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Buddylee123 View Post
I hear you. Do you have any box builds on here that you would recommend if the Stonehenge is not an option?
There's alway the full Marty...

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post #46 of 195 Old 05-22-2018, 09:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Buddylee123 View Post
I hear you. Do you have any box builds on here that you would recommend if the Stonehenge is not an option?
I need criteria. Why isn't the stone henge an option?
Size?
Price range?
Can you build?

For some, you just HAVE to go sealed due to price/craftsmanship capability.

For me, my first subwoofer I kept my budget small, and I'm happy. I learned what I was doing, got a good understanding, and I went sealed, because it really doesn't matter to me. I have no WAF. I can build as many speakers as I want. This is far cheaper than 1 single Klipsch speaker I was going to buy, until I get into some pretty high end builds.

If you aren't a person who knows they will build multiples and you really just want to be done with it, well give your criteria and we can help.

Edit: Tried to find your speakers, lol you have Klipsch. Ya, I only considered their RF7, and then I realized that I clearly need more performance after being here.
It just depends on how far you want to go. My sealed 15 makes my Klipsch Subwoofer one of the lamest purchases ever. The Sealed 15 was easy to complete (except the paint job.... because everyone uses Duratex, I of course didn't want something that looked like everyone elses. My paint job came out exactly as I expected, surprisingly. Only thing I didn't like was the actual color, but that's my own fault. I probably should have like... tested it? I wanted a deeper darker bloodier red. But whatever, I regret nothing. I could always repaint too(I think?) or just make a new enclosure as it's not expensive lol.

Last edited by tential; 05-22-2018 at 09:13 AM.
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post #47 of 195 Old 05-22-2018, 09:29 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by dan.john303 View Post
There's alway the full Marty...

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I was just looking at the Minimarty

Quote:
Originally Posted by tential View Post
I need criteria. Why isn't the stone henge an option?
Size?
Price range?
Can you build?

For some, you just HAVE to go sealed due to price/craftsmanship capability.

For me, my first subwoofer I kept my budget small, and I'm happy. I learned what I was doing, got a good understanding, and I went sealed, because it really doesn't matter to me. I have no WAF. I can build as many speakers as I want. This is far cheaper than 1 single Klipsch speaker I was going to buy, until I get into some pretty high end builds.

If you aren't a person who knows they will build multiples and you really just want to be done with it, well give your criteria and we can help.

Edit: Tried to find your speakers, lol you have Klipsch. Ya, I only considered their RF7, and then I realized that I clearly need more performance after being here.
It just depends on how far you want to go. My sealed 15 makes my Klipsch Subwoofer one of the lamest purchases ever. The Sealed 15 was easy to complete (except the paint job.... because everyone uses Duratex, I of course didn't want something that looked like everyone elses. My paint job came out exactly as I expected, surprisingly. Only thing I didn't like was the actual color, but that's my own fault. I probably should have like... tested it? I wanted a deeper darker bloodier red. But whatever, I regret nothing. I could always repaint too(I think?) or just make a new enclosure as it's not expensive lol.
I can build and I have all the tools. I was just trying to be lazy The Minimarty looks like it would be a good fit for my needs. My sub right now is a 12 Infinity, which does surprisingly well. I can't imagine how these two 18's will sound considering I'm not too unhappy with my one 12. I have been happy with the Klipsch speakers. I think the Reference Premier is an underrated line, but I will soon be changing them out for HTM-12's so I can get al the speakers behind the screen.
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post #48 of 195 Old 05-22-2018, 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Buddylee123 View Post
I was just looking at the Minimarty



I can build and I have all the tools. I was just trying to be lazy The Minimarty looks like it would be a good fit for my needs. My sub right now is a 12 Infinity, which does surprisingly well. I can't imagine how these two 18's will sound considering I'm not too unhappy with my one 12. I have been happy with the Klipsch speakers. I think the Reference Premier is an underrated line, but I will soon be changing them out for HTM-12's so I can get al the speakers behind the screen.
What amp will you be driving these subs with? I have no doubt you will be Uber satisfied with 2 18s over a single Infinity 1260

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post #49 of 195 Old 05-22-2018, 10:17 AM
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What signal should I use when doing the free air test?


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I usually just use a sine wave at various frequencies to pump a lot of air. As you increase the excursion the distortion or extra noise is easy to pick out.
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post #50 of 195 Old 05-22-2018, 10:25 AM
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What amp will you be driving these subs with? I have no doubt you will be Uber satisfied with 2 18s over a single Infinity 1260
I'm planning on upgrading to the HT1 or HT2 in a mini-marty from 2 Dayton SUB-1200s
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post #51 of 195 Old 05-22-2018, 11:10 AM - Thread Starter
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What amp will you be driving these subs with? I have no doubt you will be Uber satisfied with 2 18s over a single Infinity 1260
I have a Crown XLS 2502 but some other users have said that it's not that good for subs. I might still give it a try because I don't want to return it.
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post #52 of 195 Old 05-22-2018, 11:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Buddylee123 View Post
I have a Crown XLS 2502 but some other users have said that it's not that good for subs. I might still give it a try because I don't want to return it.
It will be fine. If you haven't already, get a UMIK-1 from Cross Spectrum Labs and REW, and enjoy the ride.
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post #53 of 195 Old 05-22-2018, 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Buddylee123 View Post
I have a Crown XLS 2502 but some other users have said that it's not that good for subs. I might still give it a try because I don't want to return it.

The Crown makes good power.

@lukeamdman tested the 2500 (previous version) and got these numbers:

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post #54 of 195 Old 05-22-2018, 11:46 AM
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I have a Crown XLS 2502 but some other users have said that it's not that good for subs. I might still give it a try because I don't want to return it.
Utter nonsense. IIRC, There's a guy on here that is powering 2 HS24's with a bridged Crown XLS 2502 per sub
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Utter nonsense. IIRC, There's a guy on here that is powering 2 HS24's with a bridged Crown XLS 2502 per sub
Gimme a couple weeks and I'll be up and running with my pair of 2502s; Luke's analysis nudged me toward choosing them.
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post #56 of 195 Old 05-22-2018, 12:06 PM - Thread Starter
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I just noticed you have dual 2 ohm drivers, so you will have to run the amp in 4 ohm stereo mode or 8 ohm mono. The amp will make about 775 per driver in that config.
They are just 2ohm drivers. I was planning on running the amp in stereo mode for 1200 watts per channel.

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post #57 of 195 Old 05-22-2018, 12:06 PM
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Gimme a couple weeks and I'll be up and running with my pair of 2502s; Luke's analysis nudged me toward choosing them.
Will you be bridging the 2502s per sub? If so, those sub will really get to moving

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post #59 of 195 Old 05-22-2018, 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Buddylee123 View Post
They are just 2ohm drivers. I was planning on running the amp in stereo mode for 1200 watts per channel.

OK good. You will get full power then. That should be plenty.
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post #60 of 195 Old 05-23-2018, 02:57 AM
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The Crown makes good power.

I just noticed you have dual 2 ohm drivers, so you will have to run the amp in 4 ohm stereo mode or 8 ohm mono. The amp will make about 775 per driver in that config.
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I have a Crown XLS 2502 but some other users have said that it's not that good for subs. I might still give it a try because I don't want to return it.
Yep, that's the thing about the crown XLS. It's a decent amp and it seems to do "fine". Until one day you hook up something like an EP4000 and compare. Then you're wondering "WTF? what was wrong with my crown? It had like no low excursion at all in the bass". For me, I started with the EP4000 for my subs and knew what to expect. I had Crown running some (non-subwoofer) speakers and really liked the crown. When I built a sub and hooked up the crown, I realized it was just terrible for a sub amp. Thought something was wrong with the sub until I tried the EP4000 and verified it was fine. Had multiple crowns, multiple behringers. The crowns are way better for non-sub material. The behringer EP4000 beats the iNuke and crown for subs. No comparison.

Do yourself a favor. Spend the whole $329 at amazon for an EP4000, set the dipswitch settings I posted as that's critical and do a comparison yourself. Return/sell whichever is worse. I guarantee it won't be the EP4000 that goes.

Crown's seem to sell for more also. I bet you can sell your crown and come out ahead.
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