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post #31 of 234 Old 02-29-2016, 09:01 PM
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Added bonus is that you can add 2 more, and not need another amp.


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Yes, an inkuke 3000dsp is 2 ohm stable on each channel. That particular speaker is 8ohms, so you can 4 subs off of each side for a 2ohm load vs the 2.6ish you're getting with 3 subs on each side.



Too bad it's only six... Hateful Eight


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post #32 of 234 Old 02-29-2016, 09:03 PM
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The Dirty Harry build...

[after an audition, remote control in hand] "I know what you're thinking. Did he build six subs or only five? Well, to tell you the truth, in all this excitement I kind of lost track myself. But being as this is an LTD build, one of the most respected names in the forum, and would blow your socks clean off, you've got to ask yourself a question: Do I feel lucky? [finger touches volume control] Well, do ya, punk?"
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post #33 of 234 Old 03-01-2016, 05:22 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Augerhandle View Post
The Dirty Harry build...

[after an audition, remote control in hand] "I know what you're thinking. Did he build six subs or only five? Well, to tell you the truth, in all this excitement I kind of lost track myself. But being as this is an LTD build, one of the most respected names in the forum, and would blow your socks clean off, you've got to ask yourself a question: Do I feel lucky? [finger touches volume control] Well, do ya, punk?"
lol! Still can't believe I'm building 6 haha. Luckily I enjoy this stuff very much. As long as I take my time and don't push too fast to get it done yesterday it will be great.
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post #34 of 234 Old 03-01-2016, 10:16 AM
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lol! Still can't believe I'm building 6 haha. Luckily I enjoy this stuff very much. As long as I take my time and don't push too fast to get it done yesterday it will be great.
While I'm not an entirely big fan of cliche quotes (I disagree with most of them ), the classic "slow and steady wins the race" usually leads to be more true when DIY comes to mind.
Taking the time to plan and lay everything out, gather the correct kind and amount of supplies, and all other things usually leads to fewer mistakes and an overall better finished and satisfying product.

Enjoy the build. It's always satisfying to surf around at completed subs and seeing how much money you saved yourself going the DIY route.
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post #35 of 234 Old 03-01-2016, 02:49 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by bgtighe23 View Post
While I'm not an entirely big fan of cliche quotes (I disagree with most of them ), the classic "slow and steady wins the race" usually leads to be more true when DIY comes to mind.
Taking the time to plan and lay everything out, gather the correct kind and amount of supplies, and all other things usually leads to fewer mistakes and an overall better finished and satisfying product.

Enjoy the build. It's always satisfying to surf around at completed subs and seeing how much money you saved yourself going the DIY route.
I'm new enough to the game (or I should say back again after many years) that I prob don't know how much I'm saving. I need to look around at that.
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post #36 of 234 Old 03-01-2016, 02:58 PM - Thread Starter
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Wish I could do a poll for names that have been suggested... I'll pick one soon; they're all creative and hilarious.

Still working on the first 'prototype' enclosure: Tonight I will install the braces and glue the baffles together.

Looking ahead at tomorrow night it will finally be time to cut the driver hole in. LTD suggest a surface mount for ease of construction which I am fine with:

1. Shall I screw the baffles together and cut the hole out (jigsaw) both baffles at the same time?
2. Any videos/tutorials on best way to lay out the hole and actually cut it in? - a bit nervous to cut this thing in; not sure how much tolerance I'll have.
3. I have foam (both 1.5 inch and 2.5 tk) but LTD suggested a pillow. Pillow sounds easier but I'm not partial to either. Anyone use pillows to dampen?
4. I am fairly certain the enclosure is tight but should I seal to be sure and what product would you all recommend?

Pics coming soon!

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post #37 of 234 Old 03-02-2016, 10:32 AM
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http://www.data-bass.com/data?page=content&id=79


http://www.hometheatershack.com/foru...tml#post164576
(later he conclude that only a single pillow located at the center of the cab was sufficient to knock out resonances)


the easy way to find the center is to draw a diagonal from each opposing corner. they will form an "X" marking the center of the panel. then use your compass or whatever tool to scribe the cutout.


the cabs need to be air tight (other than the port). how that is achieved doesn't really matter, just make sure it is so. :-)
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post #38 of 234 Old 03-03-2016, 05:13 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post
http://www.data-bass.com/data?page=content&id=79


http://www.hometheatershack.com/foru...tml#post164576
(later he conclude that only a single pillow located at the center of the cab was sufficient to knock out resonances)


the easy way to find the center is to draw a diagonal from each opposing corner. they will form an "X" marking the center of the panel. then use your compass or whatever tool to scribe the cutout.


the cabs need to be air tight (other than the port). how that is achieved doesn't really matter, just make sure it is so. :-)
will do! I don't have a compass so I need to get creative. first enclosure is slow but the next few will be much quicker. I have a nail gun now which will help alot!!
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post #39 of 234 Old 03-03-2016, 07:32 PM
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No compass? Drive a small nail at your dead-center point (where the lines in the "X" meet). Tie a string around the nail. Let out enough string to get to the radius (half the diameter) of your circle. Tie pencil to string so that the point of the pencil is exactly at that radius point. Admittedly, this is tricky, but easily doable. Keeping string taut, draw a circle. Win!

It is better for the hole to be a tiny bit too small than oversize. You can sand the circle open with 60-grit paper until the driver fits, but you can't put wood back into a cutout too large.
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post #40 of 234 Old 03-03-2016, 08:03 PM - Thread Starter
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Followed your advice and done! Fits like a glove thank you!

Being the novice that I am a few of my cuts aren't perfect; specifically I have one vertical brace that is 1/16 (atleast) too short from front to back. Ltd had mentioned to me that I should use a construction adhesive called pl Premium for boards that are a bit too short.

How exactly does PL premium work? Does this stuff actually expand or is it more the consistency of a caulk and therefore able to be built up to bridge gaps where glue would not. Any application tips appreciated. I'm concerned that that vertical brace is too short and therefore potentially not able to adequately reinforce the walls as designed...
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post #41 of 234 Old 03-04-2016, 06:19 AM
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To make the circle I just took a piece of scrap, made sure it was 2 " longer than the radius I needed for the cutout, drilled a small hole at 1 end for the nail 1" in, and drilled a pencil size hole at the other(snug)1" in.
Then I inserted the nail through the small hole, lined it up where the X crosses, drove the nail in, laid the wood down, inserted the pencil in the other hole, and rotated it around to make my circle.
I think it works better than a string or a compass, as the pencil is straight up and down. Just make certain your 2 holes are snug around the nail and pencil- less so around the nail so it'll rotate freely, but without slop.
Once the jig was made I just reused it for the next driver. Takes 5 minutes , cost's basically nothing. May not be the best way, but worked well for me.
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post #42 of 234 Old 03-04-2016, 07:21 AM - Thread Starter
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To make the circle I just took a piece of scrap, made sure it was 2 " longer than the radius I needed for the cutout, drilled a small hole at 1 end for the nail 1" in, and drilled a pencil size hole at the other(snug)1" in.
Then I inserted the nail through the small hole, lined it up where the X crosses, drove the nail in, laid the wood down, inserted the pencil in the other hole, and rotated it around to make my circle.
I think it works better than a string or a compass, as the pencil is straight up and down. Just make certain your 2 holes are snug around the nail and pencil- less so around the nail so it'll rotate freely, but without slop.
Once the jig was made I just reused it for the next driver. Takes 5 minutes , cost's basically nothing. May not be the best way, but worked well for me.
sure thing Muzz I may try that as well
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post #43 of 234 Old 03-04-2016, 09:08 AM
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Originally Posted by ddigler View Post
How exactly does PL premium work? Does this stuff actually expand or is it more the consistency of a caulk and therefore able to be built up to bridge gaps where glue would not. Any application tips appreciated. I'm concerned that that vertical brace is too short and therefore potentially not able to adequately reinforce the walls as designed...
Both, basically. It's thick, like creamy peanut butter, and won't run if you're using it to bridge gaps. It expands some, maybe 10-20%, so it will fill without expanding too much and making a huge mess like other glues.

You can just add a simple shim to fill in the space as well.
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post #44 of 234 Old 03-04-2016, 09:15 AM - Thread Starter
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Both, basically. It's thick, like creamy peanut butter, and won't run if you're using it to bridge gaps. It expands some, maybe 10-20%, so it will fill without expanding too much and making a huge mess like other glues.

You can just add a simple shim to fill in the space as well.
Thanks rhodes this is helpful. I will use wood shims and then PL to glue it as well.

Once I open the PL it will go bad if not used completely right? Is there a way to preserve the tube for future use?
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post #45 of 234 Old 03-04-2016, 09:18 AM
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I wrap up the end of the tube with foil and Saran Wrap, and it'll last for a while. You may have to dig a hardened blob of PL out of the tip, but I've managed to use a tube over the course of a month or so with no apparent problems.
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post #46 of 234 Old 03-04-2016, 09:37 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by rhodesj View Post
I wrap up the end of the tube with foil and Saran Wrap, and it'll last for a while. You may have to dig a hardened blob of PL out of the tip, but I've managed to use a tube over the course of a month or so with no apparent problems.
very helpful Rhodes its appreciated.
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post #47 of 234 Old 03-05-2016, 12:53 PM - Thread Starter
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Rocking and rolling. The nail gun is a savior! Should have these puppies completely assembled except for tops on by the end of the weekend! It's about time to pick a name!
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post #48 of 234 Old 03-05-2016, 12:56 PM - Thread Starter
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LTD- should I just go ahead and throw tops on to wrap up the build? I can still get in through the large hole in the front and if I'm just using pillows to dampen shouldn't be that hard to connect speakon, Throw Pillow in and put the driver in right?
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post #49 of 234 Old 03-05-2016, 01:43 PM
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Why wouldn't you install and hookup the wires to the speakon ahead of time while it's wide open? I soldered my wires to the speaking terminals, some folks use female spades, but I like to be 100% certain it's solid and will never EVER come loose.
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post #50 of 234 Old 03-05-2016, 02:48 PM - Thread Starter
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True muzz. Won't be the last time I ask a silly question haha Thanks!
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post #51 of 234 Old 03-05-2016, 02:57 PM - Thread Starter
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Going to add bracing tomorrow and then caulk all joints although I'm pretty sure they're tight already.. After that going to make all connections and then put the tops on and done deal! Ltd's design once I got the right tools indeed was very simple to put together. The first one took several hours cause I didn't have the right stuff. Once I got the nail gun things started moving. I had a helper for some of the time but I'm thinking the last 5 went together in a total of 10 hours which was less than what I had assumed.

The rest of my room isn't even close to being ready yet but it's nice to have these enclosures out of the way. Going to choose a name tomorrow!
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post #52 of 234 Old 03-05-2016, 06:45 PM - Thread Starter
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Braces are in going to make connections, mount speakers, throw pillow in and put the tops on!
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post #53 of 234 Old 03-06-2016, 09:22 PM - Thread Starter
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Special thanks to all who suggested names. They are all awesome but wlhungdude wins this time: the subs shall be called DIGSREXUS or the REXUS sub for short! Thanks again all!

Am I able to change the name of my post to include the sub name somehow?
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post #54 of 234 Old 03-09-2016, 06:04 AM - Thread Starter
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Good morning all! To followup a bit - all enclosures are complete and turned out well! I did my best to make all corner joints completely flush but still ended up with a few that may be out 1/32". If I decide to finish the cabs down the road I'll have some prep work to do as a result. All and all though the enclosures are ROCK solid and the REXUS subs are nearly complete!

Tonight I will caulk the joints. I'm pretty sure its not necessary but its cheap insurance while the tops are still off to ensure air tight operation. I expect the last 5 drivers will show up tomorrow! I'll prob take a couple hours and mount them right away so the wife doesn't give me a hard time for stacking the boxes elsewhere in the house. Beyond that, I have pillows (standard Walmart cheapos) that I will fasten (maybe nail?) to the back of the cabs to dampen. Finally, trying to track my remaining 5 speakon connectors on UPS Mail Innovations is useless. Hoping they show up this week in which case I'll complete the subs, stack 3 high and cover with plastic for drywall starting next week.

I have a 50' XLR run I'm making from the AVR to the subs where the iNuke will sit. Concerned about interference with the power lines (recessed lights) ATM. The power lines are in the same soffit I'll be running the XLR in. I'll try to avoid the power but its not practical to miss it completely. Any suggestions to shield the XLR if it has to pass over power? LTD02 was explaining to me that low voltage lines are especially susceptible to interference from power...
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post #55 of 234 Old 03-09-2016, 04:15 PM
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we need more pics .... please.

Joseph

mods, can we have a 'dislike' button ?
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post #56 of 234 Old 03-09-2016, 04:50 PM - Thread Starter
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we need more pics .... please.

Joseph
Sure thing man give me 30 minutes...
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post #57 of 234 Old 03-09-2016, 05:08 PM - Thread Starter
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Here they are getting pretty close to complete! Tomorrow the drivers will arrive and I'll mount them right away. I hope to see the speakon connectors on Friday in which case I'll put the pillows in, mount the connectors and put the tops on done deal!

Since the room is not operational I'm not exactly sure how to test these just yet... LTD, do you want me to run any tests on these? I certainly don't expect any issues but would sure like to identify potential issues now rather than later...

Will post up pictures tomorrow night or Friday night latest with the drivers installed!

As a side note, I don't plan to finish these enclosures at this time... I'm going to be using a black acoustic fabric as well as an acoustically transparent screen to hide the subs as well as my other front speakers.
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post #58 of 234 Old 03-09-2016, 06:49 PM
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they look great so far !!

any plans for left to right bracing along the top center? flush with the top piece that is yet to go on?

speakons?

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post #59 of 234 Old 03-09-2016, 09:16 PM - Thread Starter
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they look great so far !!

any plans for left to right bracing along the top center? flush with the top piece that is yet to go on?

speakons?
No plans to add bracing to the top Center although you bring up a good point. Going to follow ltd02 design which does not call for any bracing beyond what is currently installed (verticals and horizontals left and right)

Waiting for speakons to show think they will be here on Friday. I'll have to install them and then mount the drivers. When both of those items are complete then I will come up with a way to fasten 1-pillow each behind each driver for damping per LTD02 design. After that top goes on and done!

I'm starting to think I may need to finish these things that maybe you will see them a bit behind the fabric of my false wall. Having to finish all of these adds a whole other element LOL! I may just wrap in black cloth...
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post #60 of 234 Old 03-09-2016, 09:57 PM
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I do think they need more bracing. You have some large panels . I keep thinking of the rule of thumb that says no more than 8" between braces. Some of the panels are not braced well enough.

I apologize for tossing this out so late in the build process, but better now than once you have the tops glued on. And yes, I do realize you have 6.... but I just cant look at one box, and feel like it has enough bracing. too many large panels....

my rec: add a brace similar to the port brace, but broken up to fit, along the entire top side. add a "+" brace on the panel directly behind the driver. ... consider front to back bracing, especially in that main center chamber, both above, below, and at the sides of where the driver will be exerting maximum force. Directly coupling the beffle to the back wall if even through dowels....{hint.... use dowels}.... {even better is to incorporate front to back braces "EXACTLY" where the screws used to hold the driver in) that go all the way from front to back

to put that another way... since you haven't added any wood blocks behind the baffle, to better screw into, consider large dowels that go all the way to the back panel. yes, 8 big @ss dowels gued from front to back, into which the driver mounting screws attach. very secure attachment, and increases the rigidity of the box, especially against the natural forces that driver will exert.

basically, you'll never be able to brace it more, than right now... before the box is sealed and done. But you should. It isn't braced well enough, now, <as designed> for the task it will be expected to do... these are the 'original' REXUS, right? they need to be right.

Joseph

not meant to offend, and IMO...and YMMV.

I'm really not trying to nit-pick, as I think this build is simply spectacular. My tip-o-the hat to ddig, for making it happen, and sharing the results here.

Joseph
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mods, can we have a 'dislike' button ?
wlhungdude is offline  
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