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post #4741 of 4791 Old 01-09-2019, 07:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Afryingpan View Post
Hi just finished my mini Marty and I am just wondering if it's possible to plug one of the ports to achieve a lower tuning?

I know SVS and other ID sub makers do this

I have more than enough output from this mini Marty so losing some output isn't a problem

Just want to know if I can hit like 13hz from plugging a port

Thanks
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Originally Posted by TexmasterPEB View Post
@Heide264 might be able to answer that... but 13Hz from a mini seems impossible.
I'm too busy procrastinating modeling them, ha! Sorry about that.

I wouldn't plug a port, personally. I think you'll end up in chuff city and probably won't have enough output to make much of a difference at those low frequencies.


...I suck at applying duratex, as a side note. I definitely required two-three coats on my marty, especially around the 'edge grain' of the MDF
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post #4742 of 4791 Old 01-09-2019, 07:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Heide264 View Post
...I suck at applying duratex, as a side note. I definitely required two-three coats on my marty, especially around the 'edge grain' of the MDF
Likewise. This was my first go at it, and although it came out well enough I don't think I'll use it again for in-home speakers. IMO, it would be ideal for garage gear!

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post #4743 of 4791 Old 01-09-2019, 07:36 AM
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Originally Posted by TexmasterPEB View Post
Likewise. This was my first go at it, and although it came out well enough I don't think I'll use it again for in-home speakers. IMO, it would be ideal and great for garage gear!
Mine are both going behind a screen (unless the room begs to differ), so I'm not too worked up over it even if it turns out 'meh'. I think it will help a lot in terms of durability, but yeah, I don't know if I'll use it again, myself, unless I need the water resistance/durability it offers.
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post #4744 of 4791 Old 01-09-2019, 08:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Heide264 View Post
...I suck at applying duratex, as a side note. I definitely required two-three coats on my marty, especially around the 'edge grain' of the MDF
Same here. I've tried in on two different cabinets with mixed results (as in the first one was really bad, the 2nd was just bad).
I pre-treated all of the MDF edges with the water/glue mixture - sanded between coats, did everything suggested in the technical notes, etc.. didn't seem to make much of a difference.
In the end I went with 4 coats and used the special roller that I bought from Duratex that gives it a really grainy look.

These will all go behind the screen, so not going to sweat it. But I had expected it to turn out better than it did.
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post #4745 of 4791 Old 01-09-2019, 11:43 AM
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Yeah... I may thin it down and try spraying it in the future. I never got into paint spraying, but it may force me to rebuild my ancient compressor heads for a whopping $14, ha!
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post #4746 of 4791 Old 01-09-2019, 11:52 AM
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You guys are scaring me. I bought duratex for my upcoming Marty builds (GSG) flat pack thinking it would turn out well without all the prep work needed for a smooth finish. My subs will be in the open and my wife is suspicious of my choice already.

Anyone able to offer proven duratex finishing advice?
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post #4747 of 4791 Old 01-09-2019, 11:59 AM
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Originally Posted by DreamingOfHT View Post
You guys are scaring me. I bought duratex for my upcoming Marty builds (GSG) flat pack thinking it would turn out well without all the prep work needed for a smooth finish. My subs will be in the open and my wife is suspicious of my choice already.

Anyone able to offer proven duratex finishing advice?
If you read around, most people have great luck with it. I think I'm just a bit overly critical and had high expectations. Just keep a lot of fine sand paper on hand in case you aren't happy with a coat. It's easy to sand down a bit and try again if you aren't happy
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post #4748 of 4791 Old 01-09-2019, 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by DreamingOfHT View Post
You guys are scaring me. I bought duratex for my upcoming Marty builds (GSG) flat pack thinking it would turn out well without all the prep work needed for a smooth finish. My subs will be in the open and my wife is suspicious of my choice already.

Anyone able to offer proven duratex finishing advice?


I had emailed the MFG inquiring about achieving a smooth finish. I was told that foam rollers would do the trick, so that is what I used. The finish is certainly not as aggressive as if I'd used their texture roller, but it is not paint-smooth either. That was the biggest let down for me.


The hardest part of working with the stuff is getting it from the can to the surface to be painted. You can't load up the roller like you do with normal paint. You pretty much dip the roller like you were applying grease with it. Then smudge it around the surface to be painted until it is somewhat even distributed, and then you can roll it out. Edge lines are quite noticeable, so make sure you smooth them over quickly.


I'll try to post some pics of my finish with the foam roller later tonight.
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post #4749 of 4791 Old 01-09-2019, 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by TexmasterPEB View Post
I had emailed the MFG inquiring about achieving a smooth finish. I was told that foam rollers would do the trick, so that is what I used. The finish is certainly not as aggressive as if I'd used their texture roller, but it is not paint-smooth either. That was the biggest let down for me.


The hardest part of working with the stuff is getting it from the can to the surface to be painted. You can't load up the roller like you do with normal paint. You pretty much dip the roller like you were applying grease with it. Then smudge it around the surface to be painted until it is somewhat even distributed, and then you can roll it out. Edge lines are quite noticeable, so make sure you smooth them over quickly.


I'll try to post some pics of my finish with the foam roller later tonight.
Thanks Heide264 and TexmasterPEB. I look forward to the pictures and will do more reading too.
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post #4750 of 4791 Old 01-09-2019, 03:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DreamingOfHT View Post
You guys are scaring me. I bought duratex for my upcoming Marty builds (GSG) flat pack thinking it would turn out well without all the prep work needed for a smooth finish. My subs will be in the open and my wife is suspicious of my choice already.

Anyone able to offer proven duratex finishing advice?
Spraying it on is the way to go. I rolled on a few coats first with the finest foam roller you can buy and then moved on to using a texture sprayer with primo results. The sprayers are Uber cheap. Think I paid like $25 for mine off eBay. If you’ve never used one it’s still super easy. You plug it into an air compressor line. When it’s plugged in the air always comes out the nozzle but when you pull the trigger it allows whatever is in the hopper to get blown out with the air. You can adjust how much Duratex is mixed with the air and you want to set it so it barely barely barely sprays out. You also want to turn your air compressor regulator down to around 30 psi. I’m still blown away myself how good mine turned out. Nobody believes me that I made those Marty subs even when they walk up to them and run their fingers on them. Keep in mind this isn’t for a “smooth” finish or even like a flat black wall paint, it’s a very fine and even lightly textured finish that is very attractive. It’s not just garage speaker paint If I do it again I will skip the rollers entirely and just spray it on only. Hope this helps and have fun!
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post #4751 of 4791 Old 01-09-2019, 03:27 PM
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Here is a close up, for reference

Again, foam roller only.
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post #4752 of 4791 Old 01-09-2019, 03:48 PM
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DreamingofHT,

Personally, I'm a huge fan of Duratex and I think you'll be fine, as long as you take your time. Here's the kind of finish that's possible with a Textured brush (heaviest texture) vs foam roller (low texture/fine finish) vs spray (finest finish):

(fwiw, none of the pics are mine, and instead they are just images I found via google). I have probably painted more than 20 cabinets at this point though, and I've used all three methods, and these pics are an accurate representation imo, of what you can expect)

Textured roller:


Foam Roller


Sprayed on:
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post #4753 of 4791 Old 01-09-2019, 04:26 PM
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Wow. Thanks for taking the time to do that. I appreciate it. These look like I thought they would when I bought the duratex. Thanks again
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post #4754 of 4791 Old 01-09-2019, 04:31 PM
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I don't have any real world experience with the duratex but if you are worried about the seems I would recommend some bondo and sanding prior to duratex. If the duratex will adhere that is. I have used it even before veneering just to make sure there were no bumps.
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post #4755 of 4791 Old 01-09-2019, 04:37 PM
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The foam roller pic is light years away from mine. I bet they cut the duratex when that was rolled. Looks great.
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post #4756 of 4791 Old 01-09-2019, 05:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rec head View Post
I don't have any real world experience with the duratex but if you are worried about the seems I would recommend some bondo and sanding prior to duratex. If the duratex will adhere that is. I have used it even before veneering just to make sure there were no bumps.
Bondo worked for me as well, but I found that wall spackle was even easier to use. I forget the brand I was using, but when applied it was pink, and then after it dried it was white. Some light sanding and then duratex over that worked beautifully. For anyone using spackle to hide the seams though...be sure it's 100% dry before you duratex over it (duratex wont adhere well, if it's not).
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post #4757 of 4791 Old 01-09-2019, 05:29 PM
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I've found when rolling on,using a disposable rolling pan and wheenie rollers with a little water to thin the Duratex works best for me.I might try one of the hopper spray guns from Harbor Freight.Sprayed on finish looks the best to me.
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post #4758 of 4791 Old 01-09-2019, 06:25 PM
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When corner loading, how close to the wall can I go without issues?
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post #4759 of 4791 Old 01-09-2019, 07:49 PM
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Well, pending some minor amp adjustments this seems to be the final solution. Subs are firing towards to outboard walls.

Thanks to all for your help!

Now I have to figure out what to do with the old 18” cabinet. Wonder if it will fit behind the second row of seats... 😉
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post #4760 of 4791 Old 01-10-2019, 06:22 AM
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Thanks bluenova. The good results when spraying with a texture finish gun, we're you spraying roller grade or spray grade duratex? I've already bought the roller grade from PE. Maybe the roller grade can be cut with water or floetrol well enough for these sprayers?
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post #4761 of 4791 Old 01-10-2019, 06:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevings View Post
Bondo worked for me as well, but I found that wall spackle was even easier to use. I forget the brand I was using, but when applied it was pink, and then after it dried it was white. Some light sanding and then duratex over that worked beautifully. For anyone using spackle to hide the seams though...be sure it's 100% dry before you duratex over it (duratex wont adhere well, if it's not).
Suprised you liked that stuff. I got WAAAAY too familiar with all sorts of plaster using literally bags and bags and gallons of different spackle when I went OCD skim coating the walls of a old house (slat and lathe horse hair plaster) because I decided I wanted high gloss black walls (ignoring every piece of advice given to me online and by profession painters I knew). That pink **** is TERRIBLE... People use bondo because plaster can crack over time. Hopefully a thick paint like duratex will keep that from happening to you but keep an eye out because that pink **** is terrible (can you tell I've been jaded by my terrible decision on painting? haa)
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post #4762 of 4791 Old 01-10-2019, 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by TexmasterPEB View Post
Well, pending some minor amp adjustments this seems to be the final solution. Subs are firing towards to outboard walls.

Thanks to all for your help!

Now I have to figure out what to do with the old 18” cabinet. Wonder if it will fit behind the second row of seats... 😉

Can you swap them side to side?...will hide the speaker connectors that way and the wires will run along the back wall...unless thats what you were going for...love the Vega's!! I just refoamed a pair of the old AT-8's

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post #4763 of 4791 Old 01-10-2019, 12:53 PM
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Originally Posted by tiggere View Post
Can you swap them side to side?...will hide the speaker connectors that way and the wires will run along the back wall...unless thats what you were going for...love the Vega's!! I just refoamed a pair of the old AT-8's


No can do, as I built them with terminals on both sides since I wasn't sure what the final orientation would be and I didn't want to pull the drivers out again. That wasn't the plan all along... but after several mods both cabs ended up with two terminals.


These Vegas are OK; twin 8s in each. I miss my old towers with 15s. Those things took a serious beating and just kept on playing! And weighed 110lbs each!

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post #4764 of 4791 Old 01-10-2019, 11:52 PM
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Originally Posted by DreamingOfHT View Post
Thanks bluenova. The good results when spraying with a texture finish gun, we're you spraying roller grade or spray grade duratex? I've already bought the roller grade from PE. Maybe the roller grade can be cut with water or floetrol well enough for these sprayers?
I personally used spray grade and I’ve heard the difference is only slight but I’ve never used the roller grade. People thin it with water all the time and I probably would too but I’d test on a piece of scrap first to see how it’s working out with different levels of dilution.
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post #4765 of 4791 Old 01-12-2019, 01:19 AM
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Coming along.


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post #4766 of 4791 Old 01-12-2019, 11:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TexmasterPEB View Post
The foam roller pic is light years away from mine. I bet they cut the duratex when that was rolled. Looks great.


Here’s a sample I made a while ago. The top is a 4” foam roller the bottom is the 3” duratex roller. These are one quick coat, not thinned.

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post #4767 of 4791 Old 01-12-2019, 01:41 PM
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Building my first full Marty, with custom dimensions, to use as a long end-table behind my couch. I'm hoping the Full Marty will help fill in the bass that's lost to the two story open living room and kitchen. Current subs are two Turbo MFW's, but will replace one with the Full Marty.



I'm nervous about the port opening in the back of my custom cabinet. Only being 22" wide, means the 17Hz tuning puts the port opening too close to the back panel. Not sure if I should make a 90 degree port opening, or just make it a little shorter than WinISD says it should be.

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My priorities? Each one of my speakers weighs more than my VT60.
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post #4768 of 4791 Old 01-12-2019, 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by imrf View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by TexmasterPEB View Post
The foam roller pic is light years away from mine. I bet they cut the duratex when that was rolled. Looks great.


Here’s a sample I made a while ago. The top is a 4” foam roller the bottom is the 3” duratex roller. These are one quick coat, not thinned.

Attachment 2509804
Yup, mine looks close to the foam roller pic. I just thought it would be paint smooth, void of texture. Lesson learned, not the end of the world. 🙂
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post #4769 of 4791 Old 01-12-2019, 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by TexmasterPEB View Post
Yup, mine looks close to the foam roller pic. I just thought it would be paint smooth, void of texture. Lesson learned, not the end of the world. 🙂


I really like the top one, I have a sealed UM15 done with the 3” roller lightly so the texture isn’t too rough and think I’m over that method.

Now that spray from above looks awesome.


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post #4770 of 4791 Old 01-15-2019, 01:39 PM
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I have a couple of GSG flat packs on the way, as well as Ultimax woofers. Quick question on the assembly: the instructions don't seem to include any recommendation for damping or stuffing. Anyone have thoughts on whether it's necessary to include damping of some type, and if so what?
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